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Still the heavy hitter
HORNSBY’S Rails Restaurant has garnered plenty of praise from this column in the past, and after another superb meal at this fine establishment, what more can I say?

15 Oct 09 | by Jessica Clement

NAME: Rails restaurant

WHERE: 31 Station St, Hornsby

WHEN: Wed-Fri noon-2pm; Tue-Sat from 6pm (bookings essential)

COST: Entrees from $15.50, mains from $24, dessert from $12

DETAILS: 9477 7369

WORDS: Jessica Clement

So, I’ll let my dinner companion say it all for me: “This is the best meal I’ve ever had in my life.”

High praise indeed. (It was the baby barramundi.)

The Rails Restaurant kitchen is headed by chef Matt De Luca and does everything well.

We sat down for an early Friday dinner and were greeted with great warmth by Rails’ exemplary table staff.

We started our evening with salt and pepper squid accompanied by mixed leaf and walnut vinaigrette salad and sweet soy sauce ($16.50), and crispy soft shell crab with wild rocket salad and tomato chilli jam ($18).

Both dishes were tantalising introductions. The squid was light, tender and its accompanying sauce was a sweet and sticky flavour hit.

Soft shell crab is always a menu hit but, combined with De Luca’s chilli and tomato jam, it was stunning.

My companion ordered the roasted whole baby barramundi crusted in thyme and curry, served with coriander jasmine rice, shaved vegetable salad, aioli ($28) - and we’ve heard what he thought of that dish.

I ordered the Hunter Valley pasture-fed beef tenderloin wrapped in prosciutto, served with mushroom ragout, asparagus, and french fries ($35); and was knocked out.

Currently a special item, this was my highlight without a doubt. De Luca insisted that the pasture-fed beef was a “completely different taste” to its grain-fed alternative.

Just when we thought nothing else would impress us out came our desserts.

First, another highlight - the strawberry trifle served with double cream and homemade biscotti ($12) - the strawberry lover’s dream dessert.

And finally, the perfect end with the apple and rhubarb crumble with vanilla ice-cream and anglaise ($13).

Hornsby Advocate online article: Click Here


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